Basic Setup Guide

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Basic Setup Guide

Post  Dalags on Sun Feb 15, 2015 5:31 am

This guide is for Auto and Keys, but a lot of stuff explained applies to using Manual and Controllers too.
This guide is largely for clockwise RX tracks, as a lot of stuff differs for R, figure of 8's and anti-clockwise tracks.

If anyone wants to add tips for Manual and for Controllers/Pads etc, feel free. I've had no experience using either, so can't really give any advice for those.

I'll focus largely on Weights and Gears, because those are what I find make the most difference.
For each section, I'l provide some 'base' information that anyone can just whack on, and then some extra information if you want to fiddle around to suite your driving style.

Here's a setup with a lot of the base values already on
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Dc9XzP3SQ7YWh0SUZ6UUItSmc/
Save the file into C:\Program Files (x86)\Hasbro Interactive\NASCAR Heat\OnlineBangers\Setups\ArenaEssexRX
for example, or without the (x86) depending on your machine.


Gears
Gears are important to get right, and definitley key for being faster.
For most tracks you'll be wanting to run with either 2 gears, or 4 gears.
I find 2 gears are more suited to smaller, tighter tracks, e.g. Smeatharpe, Mildenhall, Bovingdon - though some people do run 2 gears nearly everywhere.
I find 4 gears are suited to any track that isn't small.
I don't know anyone who runs on 3 gears, I tried it on Wimbledon once and it doesn't really feel right, but feel free to experiment.

Some base 4 gears would be:
1st: 3.10
2nd: 2.70
3rd: 2.70
4th: 1.40 (last)
Final Gear Ratio: 5.83

Some base 2 gears would be:
1st: 3.30
2nd: 2.00 (last)
3rd: 0.50
4th: 0.50
Final Gear Ratio: 4.56

Setting gears to 0.50 will essentially mean you don't want to use them - make sure your setup doesn't cause your car to rev too much, else it'll skip into the 0.50 gears.

Having 2 consecutive gears with the same value will mean the first of those gears is skipped.
On the example given for 4 gears, having 2.70 for 2nd, and 2.70 for 3rd means that the car will go from 1st, to 3rd, then to 4th, skipping 2nd gear.
I don't find skipping from 1st to 4th very effective.

The first gear value is essentially how long you want it to be in first gear, before jumping into the next gear.
The closer each gear value is to the next one, the sooner it will jump to it.
Because you don't want to stay in first gear for too long when racing, setting it closer to 2nd or 3rd is a good idea.

The last gear should be adjusted depending wether you're in an Unlimited, 2Litre, Micro.

The Final Gear Ratio is used to adjust all the gears together.
A smaller ratio will take longer to get to a higher rpm you're wanting on the enterance to the bends, useful for 2 gear/smaller tracks.

A lower ratio turns in slower, as it produces less torque, a higher ratio will turn in quicker, as it produces more. If your car is understeering in the corners, raising the ratio should correct that, but remember to lower your last gear a tiny bit to suite, so it's not revving too much at the end of the straights.

Weights
Front weight
The higher this value is, the stiffer the car feels. Because when racing, you want to be able to avoid cars, and battle with others on the enterance to corners, this should be set at around 48.5 - 49.00

Left weight
This should always be on the lowest, 45.8, as you obviously don't want the car having more weight on the left, when you're turning right.
Although, if the car is feeling slippy, you can put it up to around 46.00, to balance it out, but that's something I very rarely have to do.

Wedge
This is something I find myself adjusting the most.
Lowering the Wedge will make the car slide less with power.
Raising the wedge will make the car slide more with power.
For RWD cars I usually have this around 48.0 - 48.5.
For FWD cars I usually have this around 51.0 - 53.0, it depends how good you are at driving FWD and getting the car into the bends.

You will want to adjust the Wedge, depending on how much you want the car to slide. It can be useful sliding the car in at tighter tracks like Mildenhall, Bovingdon, and keeping it stiffer at wider tracks, like Hednesford, Ipswich.

Front Sway Bar
I usually have this set as 1 1/2 or 1 5/8, usually the latter in FWD.
Raising this will make it less slidy on the exit of bends, thus making the cornering more smooth. This may give you a more consistent racing line when practising doing laps, but may leave you vunerable to someone behind you with a more flexible setup, who can slide in on the inside line.

Rear Sway Bar
I usually have this set as .500 or None, usually the latter in FWD.
A larger value for this, will make the car more loose.

Brake Bias
A higher brake bias will prevent the car from spinning when braking, whereas a lower brake bias will make the car more slippy when braking.
I usually have mine at 75% for everywhere, although a slightly higher value may suite short, tighter tracks.

Spoiler Angle
I always have this set as 70%.
This setting is mainly for Nascar's, so adjusting it won't really make any noticable effect.
From the NH Setup guide "Less spoiler reduces air drag and rear down force, giving higher top speeds and a looser car."
A setting of 70% is also recomended in the guide.

Grille Tape
Set this as 0%.
Another setting largely for Nascar's. From the NH Setup guide "More tape reduces air drag and increases front downforce".
It is also noted that more grille tape can cause the engine to overheat quicker too, so best to leave this on 0%.

Wheel Lock
This seems to vary from person to person, depending how fast you want the wheels to steer.
I usually have mine at 9%, but don't be surprised if you want yours slightly higher or lower, to suite your driving style.

Trim
A high trim will make your car automatically lean to the right.
I usually have this on around 0.300.
Haven't experimented, but maybe setting this higher will aid turning in with FWD cars?

Shocks, Springs, Tires, Camber
I usually have these the same for everywhere, regardless of RWD or FWD.
Adjusting the Shocks and Springs can help make the car feel smoother on bumpier tracks though, e.g Stoke, but I've never really mastered or understood that, so I'll save explanation for another day.
Different drivers run different tire pressures and camber settings, but I rarely ever touch them, so here are the base values I run.

Shocks:
LF 350/400
RF 340/360
LR 230/240
RR 240/250

Springs:
LF 760
RF 870
LR 200
RR 400

Tire
LF 28.25
RF 26.00
LR 27.25
RR 29.00

Camber
LF -4.9
RF 4.5
LR 0
RR 0

Hopefully this of help to those struggling or confused.
Mark
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Dalags
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